Fun, festivities and flavours in Cambodia: Phnom Penh and Battambang – Part 1 of 3

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On Christmas Day in 2023 my friend Di and I were sitting outside at a roadside restaurant in Cambodia, the occasional ant dropping on us from an overhead tree and supping on a tasty broth made with pieces of pork, wrinkly skinned tofu and vegetables followed by a delicious omelette filled with dried fish. If I had to sum up my trip to Cambodia in one word it would be immersive. So many sights, sounds, colours, flavours, spices, sensations and the constant hustle and bustle of tuk-tuks, survival-of-the fittest traffic, street dogs, repair shops, roadside food stalls and sidewalks sizzling with frypans.

I’d been rather anxious in the lead-up to my trip – finishing work, getting my house, garden and dog ready for the dog-sitters not to mention packing, worrying about getting food poisoning and feeling somewhat hysterical about the prospect of being zapped by a mozzie carrying Dengue fever.

But when I landed on 22nd December to a laughing and smiling Di – she’s currently living and working in Cambodia – and her lovely driver Theary, a beautiful soul and a very gentle man – all my fears started to dissipate. And Di and I were soon giggling with joy, something we often do when together.  

I jumped straight into it all on my first night and we walked out to a seafood restaurant – crossing a busy main road, one that Di must navigate daily. I have not travelled much in Asia so had no experience in wading out into the traffic – no one seems to follow any rules – and hoping the Red Sea would part. Yikes!

We ate at Nesat Seafood where I had stir-fried squid with vegetables and green Kampot pepper – young green pepper corns that have a zesty bite, a new flavour sensation for me. We also had margaritas – something that became an almost daily ritual over the 12 days of my trip.  

I had had a milestone birthday in October 2023, and Di’s present to me was an overnight stay and pamper session at the Plantation, an urban resort and spa in the middle of Phnom Penh. You approach via a courtyard with pillars and arches showing local art and a carp-filled pond in the middle guarded by dragon statues. The tree in the centre of the lily pond was adorned with lanterns with the addition of red baubles for Christmas. We each had a room overlooking the pool – beautifully landscaped by trees and lush greenery.

In the afternoon I enjoyed a two-hour Khmer massage with a hot compress packed with herbs including turmeric, galangal and lemongrass. Although I didn’t fall asleep as such – the compress was very hot, sometimes almost too hot – I emerged feeling wonderfully rejuvenated, my muscles warmed up and everything flowing.  Soon after my massage, one of the staff knocked on my door and presented me with a piece of cheesecake topped with a bit of gold leaf and Happy Birthday written in berry coulis.  Tempting as it looked, part of my birthday treat was dinner at a French restaurant so eating cheesecake beforehand was not an option.  The plate wouldn’t fit in the minibar fridge so I scooped it up in a plastic shower cap so it would go in – waste not, want not!

After breakfast the next day, a spot of poolside lounging in a cabana and a brisk swim in the pool – it was a coolish 23 degrees, windy and cloudy – we set off to explore Phnom Penh. We walked along ‘no traffic’ street and Street 246, before heading along the river. Di pointed out some of the architectural features – from a coffin shop to art deco and colonial buildings on the opposite side of the river. And the Chaktomuk Theatre (now a conference centre) built in the ‘60s (a golden era in Cambodia) with its fan-shaped structure referencing a palm leaf. It was designed by Vann Molyvann, the architect who pioneered the New Khmer Architecture, combining modernism and Khmer tradition.

Walking on along Sisowath Quay – with great views of the Royal Palace over the road – we passed a group of people playing a Cambodian ball game – the idea is to keep the ball in the air using arms, legs, head, thighs, hands – whatever! Quite fascinating to watch. Then there were the usual food vendors, fortune tellers with their packs of cards and the Preah Ang Dorngkeu Shrine where people were buying lotus flowers, candles and incense sticks. Around 2pm we stopped and snacked on ham and cheese that we had snaffled from the breakfast buffet followed by the shower cap cheesecake, the latter rather gloopy and over-sweet. But at least we ate some of it!

In the distance we looked over at the Independence Monument built in 1958 to celebrate the day the Cambodians won back their independence from the French protectorate on 9th November 1953. The 20-meter-high monument was also designed by Vann Molyvann and is shaped in the form of a lotus.

We spent the afternoon visiting the National Museum of Cambodia, built in the traditional Khmer style with tiered roofs and spires. The museum houses one of the world’s largest collections of Khmer art, over 14,000 items from prehistoric times to periods before, during and after the Khmer Empire which, in its heyday, extended from Thailand, across current day Cambodia to southern Vietnam.  Some of my favourite items were huge sets of bronze bells that were used for tracking elephants and sandstone carved Buddhas seated on peacocks, Garudas (eagle-like Divine creatures) and Apsaras – these are female celestial spirits in Hindu and Buddhist mythology who dance and entertain the gods.   I’d see many more representations of apsaras at the temples in Siem Reap (coming in Part 2).  

We then walked onto Friends Future Factory, which was a complete contrast, a striking barn-like building with curved orange bands forming a suspended half roof. A social enterprise, there’s a farmers’ market at weekends, designer clothing, photo and art exhibitions and a Trabant painted red with black spots – I loved that quirky touch.

We took a tuk-tuk to the Rosewood Hotel and drank Christmas Eve cocktails –mine was an exquisite mix of rum and lychee – at the rooftop bar with views over Phnom Penh. Although we were not spending a second night at the Plantation we returned there for a western-style Christmas Eve pool-side buffet. For the modest sum of US $30, there was a lavish spread of seafood and roast meats, salads and puddings galore. What’s more there was a stuffed Santa sitting on the bar, red tea lights floating on the pool, dried orange, clove and cinnamon scrolls on the table and a choir of children singing Jingle Bells.

On the 25th itself Theary picked us up in the morning and we headed out to Battambang, the third largest city in Cambodia. In honour of Christmas Day Di and I spent a good hour singing through our joint – and pretty extensive – repertoire of carols. Although we didn’t know the words of many of them, we had a lot of fun, and Theary complemented us on our singing!

Our first stop was in Oudong, the original Cambodian capital (1618-1866) before Phnom Penh. Perched on top of a mountain, Oudong consists of a cluster of stupas (monuments housing sacred relics – in this case – of past kings of Cambodia).  There are three main stupas – the second, Ang Duong, is decorated with colourful tiles and the third stupa, Mukh Proum is very striking with four faces looking outwards towards the four cardinal directions, which made me think of a Russian doll, maybe because of the conical shape.

What we didn’t realise – I had a fair bit of muscle fatigue and twitching after descending the 509 steps – is that at the base of the mountain near the path, is a memorial buried with the bones of hundreds of bodies exhumed from one of the Khmer Rouge killing fields. You cannot go to Cambodia without coming up against the horrors of the Pol Pot regime and the legacy of trauma and grief. In Part 3, I will share my experience of visiting the Choeung Ek Genocidal Center in Phnom Penh.  

After our Christmas lunch under the ant-ridden tree, we arrived in Battambang around 5pm to be met with what I can only describe as a hellish racket.  A Christmas and New Year fair with music and stalls was going on right outside our hotel, La Villa, which overlooked the river – well it would have done if the fair hadn’t obscured the view!

La Villa was my choice. It has an old-world vibe – our first-floor rooms were each furnished with four poster beds draped with a mosquito net, a writing desk, a mini chaise longue and shuttered windows. We had drinks and dinner in the art deco bar and eating area furnished with a gramophone and old-fashioned ear-piece phones.  And we savoured another very flavoursome dinner – Beef Lok Lak, a peppery beef stir-fry (which Google describes as a comforting Cambodian dish) and very good sticky rice and mango for pudding.  

It sounds blissful, doesn’t it? The only problem was that the noise of the fair was all pervasive with tinny, screechy pop music blaring out from a floodlit stage right by the hotel which went onto until the small hours and shouty voices – the compères sounded like game show hosts having a heated argument. Lying in my four-poster bed that night, the bed at least softer than the one at Di’s apartment, the music not only made the windows and shutters vibrate, it went right through my body. I rammed in my ear plugs and eventually tuned it out.

The next morning Theary took us to Wat Kor village, about 2km outside Battambang, where we visited the temple and soaked up the peace and quiet in the company of some friendly temple dogs.  Our second stop was Mrs Bun Roeung’s Ancient House – an old-style wooden house built in 1920 (that survived the Khmer Rouge) and is still in the same family four generations later. It is furnished with highly polished heavy hardwood furniture such as a chaise longue, family portraits, musical instruments and mirrors cleverly positioned so people in the room could see who was coming in and out – whether friend or foe. And, most fascinating of all, a description of what the walls are made of – dried cow dung, straw, fermented sticky rice, palm sugar, limestone and stone.

Next, we travelled on to see rice paper rolls being made by grinding up rice and water to make a pulp which is thinly spread across a layer of muslin above a pot of steaming water and then put on a rack to dry. Two women were working away sitting by the steaming pot, their feet encased in polythene bags. How uncomfortable must that be? And to think we complain about RSI from sitting at our computers. Try making rice paper rolls all day!  A couple of chickens were scratching around, a couple of kids playing, and what I presumed to be the husband was snoozing in a hammock… This is why Di’s work is needed – she works in community development and gender equality.

Our last stop of the morning was the Romcheik 5 Artspace and café, an independent gallery where four young artists, who were all trafficked across the Thai border as children, have a permanent exhibition space. Their paintings are haunting, challenging and beautiful and reference trauma, the apocalypse, impermanence, a Buddhist between-worlds landscape and some of the all-too-common social problems in Cambodia – poverty, prostitution, child trafficking and abuse.

That afternoon we swam in the pool at La Villa enjoying the quiet before the music started up again in the evening.  Dinner that evening was at the Jaan Bai restaurant, another social enterprise. Margaritas followed by turmeric pork and Tofu with Kampot pepper.

After checking out of La Villa the next morning we had a final walk around Battambang, taking in the art deco market (stocking up on snacking bananas) with its central clock tower, the Governor’s residence built by an Italian architect, a yellow building with white shutters from the early 1900s, the Independence monument, a newly built landmark  (inaugurated August 2023) reflecting Khmer heritage and serving as a focal point for historical commemoration,  and then back along by the river lined with colonial-style houses in reds and yellows, reminding me of the Peranakan houses in Singapore.

Theary picked us about 1pm and lunch was nuts and bananas on route to Siem Reap. Friends in Melbourne had insisted I try sticky rice in a bamboo tube, so I was delighted when Theary spotted a roadside stall. And, let me tell you, it’s one of the most delicious things. It’s a salty-sweet rice (but not over sweet) with little black beans and you peel back the bamboo to eat it. Forget salted caramel – this is way superior.

In part 2 of my Cambodian travel trilogy I will be taking you to Siem Reap, home of the Angkor Wat temple complex and much more. Stay tuned…

Experiments with off-line living: more meeting up than hooking up

When was the last time you unleashed your inner child and pretended to be a blind dog, an alien from Outer Space or a French person struggling to make themselves understood? These were just some of the scenarios we were given to act out at a Theatre Games and Improvisation Meetup on the weekend. As a child I loved dressing up and putting on plays with whomever else I could rope in, and I had a bit of a knack for mimicry and accents. But that was then. On Saturday afternoon I struggled to tap into that playful vibe – it felt like being in the classroom on the first day at a new school – although I was warming up by the end. The degree to which I engaged was also partly determined by the group I was in; we were in the same group of four for the whole two hours. And my group was on the reticent side.

It was interesting to observe the dynamic and watch the more ‘Am Dram’ types take centre stage with their suite of accents and gestures, while others played out more slapstick scenes without much sublety. I observed the bolder ones and wondered what their day job was and whether this was the ultimate release; the chance to let go of corporate or even family constraints. It reminded me of the Karaoke party I hosted for my choir last year. Some people tapped into their inner rock star or channelled Madonna, hamming it up and belting it out, while others sat on the side lines. However buried, I think most of us have a desire to clown around as it gives us the freedom to tap into an alter ego.

I went to the Improvisation Meetup not only to unleash the thespian in me, but also as part of my ongoing experiment with adventures in off-line living. It’s not so much about meeting a partner and avoiding online dating, but more about expanding my world and living to the full. But maybe by doing what I love to do and not actively searching, I might meet someone like-minded in the process.

In March I went to a Cryptic Crossword 101 at the NGV. I’ve always wondered what the clue to solving the clues is. A Friday afternoon event, it was full of retirees, mainly women! However, there were a few younger people including the two engaging male presenters, one of them very dishy in a swarthy Hispanic kind of way. As it turned out, he also does cryptic crosswords in Spanish, one of the few languages apart from English with a vocabulary extensive enough. And for fans of factoids, British-born Arthur Wynne created the first crossword in 1913, and it was published in New York World.  Talking to the dishy Hispanic after the event, I found out that you can do Spanish crucigramas online. That might be a stretch even though my Spanish is pretty good. I still haven’t mastered the art in English.

Visiting my favourite beach café a few weeks ago, I got chatting to a couple of older blokes – way too long in the tooth for me – who were pouring over a crossword puzzle. I confessed that my brief 101 hadn’t equipped me to crack the clues – I reckon it takes not only a great deal more practice but also, possibly, a more lateral-thinking brain. But, hey, I now have a new string to my bow. Where once I might have ‘posed’ in a café with my book and beautiful dog child, I can now add the crossword to my arsenal of conversation starters.

Needless to say, there are also crossword Meetups. Incidentally, did you know that Meetups emerged from the community response to 9/11 in New York when people reached out to help one another? I didn’t. I’m quite a regular at the German Language Group Meetups.  I went to a wonderful exhibition of poster versions of black and white photos (the originals are in Berlin) from 1970s East Germany at Melbourne’s Goethe Institute, the only place outside Germany where they are showing. As with all Meetup groups, there’s always an eclectic mix of people from all walks of life. At a German social at the Hophaus I met a young man, impeccably dressed and well mannered, who does the marketing for Viagra, helping to maintain sales over the generic brands. I had thought the key consumers would be men of my vintage but, no, it’s younger men who want to last for longer. It’s always intriguing finding out how people earn their living. At the same group there was an academic, a shy Frenchman with lots of piercings who translates films and a psychologist who works in drug addiction.

I still think it might be my dog Bertie who leads me to someone interesting.  There was a new man on the beach this summer who caught my eye. He had an open, honest and smiley face – a boyishness about him – and lightly curly hair that matched his dog’s, one of the ‘oodles. And, importantly, no gold band on the third finger of his left hand. A fellow dog-walker, Suzanne, thought he might bat for the other side, something about the timbre of his voice and the pink floral towel, so she did some investigating for me. One should, of course, never judge a book by its cover; ring or no ring, he is, in fact, married.   In a nutshell, dear reader: been there, done that. Nein Danke.

Never mind, a few days later Bertie raced off to a rocky outcrop flanking the beach. Worried that he might repeat his trick of a few years ago of getting a bait-loaded fish hook in his mouth, I dashed after him and narrowly avoided colliding with an attractive silver-haired man changing after a swim. Apologising for invading his privacy, we had a chat and I picked up a German accent – well done Bertie for taking me over there! The man was Swiss German and had a strong accent and a good sense of humour, not something always associated with the Swiss. And I didn’t spot a wedding ring. Chances are that he’s married too but I enjoyed our brief chat and practising a bit of German. And it reinforced my belief that you never know who and what you might encounter in the real world. Onwards and upwards.

Warbling about climate change

I had a real treat on Saturday; I was immersed in the natural environment from dawn till dusk and what bliss it was. I headed out with Bertie just as the sun was coming up and the magpies were starting their melodic carolling. The skies seemed to belong to them and them alone. What a fitting start to a day of birding.

Through a fellow dog walker, I got myself onto a trip over to Mud Island with a group from the Bayside Birdlife group. Originally called Swan Isles by the European settlers in the 1800s because of the large number of swans, Mud Islands Reserve lies approximately 6km north east of Portsea on the Mornington Peninsula, covers an area of 50 ha and is now designated a RAMSAR wetland of international importance. More than 70 bird species have been recorded here making it a bird spotter’s haven.

Boarding the boat, I didn’t know what to expect. Looking around I noticed a good few grey beards, lots of dun-coloured pants, reef boots, cameras and massive telescopic lenses, tripods and a fair few Akubra-style hats. I never have the right gear for all this outdoorsy stuff – as in those trousers that unzip at the knee (like the reef boots, so good for wading through the water…), a special rucksack with built-in water bottle holder etc., but there were other mismatched bods (rain jackets teamed up with straw sun hats) and we made a merry band.

MI one

The trip was led by the local Birdlife President, Tania, who really knows her birds and is a mine of information on all sort of things. We learnt, for example, that sea urchins (known as sea hedgehogs in some languages) have five-fold symmetry, that the weight of a bird’s feathers is seven times that of its bone mass and that the nearby South Channel Port is an artificial island built as part of a network of fortifications in the 1880s to protect Port Phillip Bay against foreign invaders during the Gold Rush.

Spending five unhurried hours walking round an uninhabited sandy island and being away from all the noise, chatter and busy-ness of everyday life on the mainland was magical and immensely soul-soothing. I marvelled at the unspoilt environment all around me: saltmarshes, dune scrubland, seagrass beds, mudflats and water shading from light blue to green to dark blue, all a rich feeding and breeding ground for waders and sea birds. The beach is dense with mussel shells in varying tones of purple, large rock-like oyster shells, clam and scallop shells, one of which was covered in sponge and reminded me of a clasp purse. Another interesting find was a group of nests from a straw-necked ibis breeding colony.
scallo shell

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I didn’t have an agenda or anything to achieve unlike my comrades, many of whom were armed with notebooks in which they listed species they had spotted (regular readers will know that I don’t need any more lists! (See https://thisquirkylife.com/2016/03/22/im-proud-to-be-a-41-percenter/), noting any ‘firsts’ and adding up their totals. Twitchers through and through. My own binoculars are pretty average, so I made good use of Tania’s spotting scope to see the doubled-banded plovers, the ruddy turnstones, the red-capped plovers and the red-necked stints. We also saw lots of pelicans, black swans and terns as well as a foraging swamp harrier and a couple of pacific gulls toying with a washed-up mullet.

reef boots

On the return boat trip, we stopped by a gannet colony on a wooden tower-like structure where a few fur seals were basking. The photographers rather hogged the view as they snapped away. I took a picture with my iPhone but it came out looking blurred as the boat was listing quite heavily. Well that’s my excuse anyway. That and the increasingly chilly wet feet – the downside of not having the gear!

Wet feet and wind burn aside, I got into my car feeling exhilarated and energised from a day immersed in the elements with only feather markings, flight patterns, bird calls, beak size and wing spans to think about. I grabbed a cup of Earl Grey tea at a café before driving back from Sorrento in sunshine, singing at the top of my voice to opera classics on ABC Radio. I was in the zone, so much so that I kept exceeding speed limit by mistake – let’s hope I didn’t get caught on camera!

I can’t pretend that I wasn’t whacked by the time I got home and could have happily gone to bed at 9pm, but I had promised my friend Simon (from my former choir) that I would attend one of his multi-media ‘Music for a Warming World’ shows. And I am so glad I made the effort even if it did mean driving through the CBD on a Saturday night.
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Simon of Simon Kerr Perspective fame is a talented singer/ songwriter and academic. He and his girlfriend Christine have put together a fabulous show ‘where science, art and hope converge.’ Drawing on photos, peer-reviewed science, quotes, facts and figures, the show weaves together song and overhead visuals.

One of the pieces that really hit home was played by violinist Kylie Morrigan. Composed with one note representing the average global temperature for a single year from 1880 to 2012, it got higher and higher until it felt really frantic. As Simon says, the scientific evidence around global warming and climate change is irrefutable and 2015 is the hottest recorded year to date. What kind of world are we bequeathing to our grandchildren?
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That’s where the hope comes in. We can do more than ride our bikes and be vigilant about our recycling. Instancing the Rockefeller Brothers Fund (a private charitable fund) who have recently announced their decision to withdraw their funds from fossil fuel investments, he encouraged us to find out what kind of investments our banks and super funds are making. With a playful song entitled ‘Cheerio Coal’, he ended with a call to action: disinvest from the fossil fuel sector and stop propping up an economy that drives climate change.

What will happen to places like Mud Islands Reserve if we carry on as we are and the planet’s average annual global surface temperature rises by another 1 degree above the pre-industrial level?
For more information or to host one of Simon’s shows go to: http://www.simonkerrmusic.net/.

Embracing Community and the Kindness of Strangers

As I approach the final furlong of my Sea Change in Anglesea (for new readers, my Melbourne house is having a bit of a makeover), I’m really getting into life down here. As a not-for-profit grant-writer, I often talk about promoting or creating community connectedness and a sense of belonging. Well, recently, I’ve had the good fortune to experience both.

Last Friday, I joined in a monthly ‘Big Sing’ in a local township – well more like a hamlet actually. I was welcomed with open arms and felt instantly at ease to join in the warm-ups which, a bit like at my Melbourne-based choir, require a total absence of inhibition – blowing out your lips like a horse, wailing like a siren and generally waving your arms around. We then sang in canon using the words of a GPS navigator to the tune of London Bridge. After a few gospel numbers, a Maori song to mark Anzac Day and an Aboriginal Stolen Generations song, it was time for supper. With candles dotted around and gum tree leaves decking the walls of the community hall, we tucked into home-made soup and crusty bread. This was definitely choir Country Style.

Then on the weekend I went to the Lighthouse Literary Fest at nearby Fairhaven. I had booked back in February (just as well as it sold out fast) and knew I would need to find childcare for Bertie; I couldn’t leave him in solitary confinement in the laundry for two days running. Nearer the time, something or somebody would turn up I told myself. But the dog-sitter I left him with on a return trip to Melbourne was booked up, my neighbours were going off to Hawaii and I couldn’t really ask 89-year-old Dolly over the road. As it was, Bertie had already barked imperiously at her when she put her bins out.

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Early on in the piece, a lovely woman, Pauline, came up and admired Bertie when we were sitting outside a cafe. We got chatting and she told me her daughter had a cocker spaniel called Theodore aka Teddy. So when I bumped into her again several weeks later (she runs one of the thrift shops here), I mentioned that I was looking for a dog-sitter over Anzac weekend and wondered if one of her children might be able to help. It turned out that her kids were busy but, sure enough, Pauline and her husband Andrew volunteered. What’s more they refused to take any payment.

What I find so wonderful and generous about their gesture is that they hardly know me and yet they were happy to spend their weekend minding Bertie. Needless to say they fell in love with my boy who had – excuse the terrible pun – a ball. They took him to church, out to lunch, lavished him with cuddles, treated him to few choice snacks and several walk, and on the Saturday, invited Teddy down from Melbourne to keep him company.

All the while I was free to immerse myself in two days of cultural nourishment and stimulation. Much as I have loved all the beach and river walks, prolific bird life, friendly cafes and charity shop fossicking, I was ready for a bit of bookiness and bookish company. From the venue – a newly built Surf Life Saving Club with big ship-like timber beams overlooking the ocean to yummy paper bag lunches and a program of talks and panel discussions with actors, ABC radio presenters, journalists, film directors, emerging and established authors –it was a treat from beginning to end.

One of the discussions look at health and what makes us sick. Much of the discussion revolved around the corporatisation of food and the inability of those who are socially and economically disadvantaged to make healthy choices. We learnt about fast food producers and doctors being in cahoots on corporate boards and that wherever Coca Cola features on the world map, there’s obesity.

Other sessions explored memoir writing: how do we write about friends and people we know – do we disguise them (change their hair colour, sex and geography), do we write about them as they are and get their permission, or do we ultimately betray them? And how do we tackle writing about parents, whether dead or alive? Then there’s the dilemma of self-exposure for those that have written memoirs. Are we introverts (shrinking violets), extroverts (show-offs) or what American writer Susan Cain refers to as ambiverts, a mix of both?!

At the end of each session a musical double act, Nice Work, performed a song with a ukulele accompaniment. A bit like a sorbet cleanses the palate during a rich meal, the two young men (pretty much boys really) provided the ideal inter session refreshment.

The festival ended with a fascinating and humorous presentation by screenwriter David Roach in conversation with Graeme Simsion (of The Rosie Project fame). A chance meeting with a Master of Wine on a plane was the genesis of the documentary, Red Obsession, about China’s voracious appetite for wines produced by the great chateaux in Bordeaux. We saw clips of the film, one of my favourites featuring the owner of one of the big name chateaux (I forget which) in Bordeaux. He said it all came down to love (or lurv in his French accent) – loving the wine, loving drinking it and loving the cultivation of it grape by grape. He should know; he’d drunk something like a couple of bottles with lunch day.

Coming back to the kindness of strangers, I gave Pauline and Andrew a bottle of local Shiraz as a thank-you for looking after Bertie. Not quite in the same league as the top notch Bordeaux wines the Chinese are buying for up to $250,000 a bottle, but a token of appreciation nevertheless. I’m going to miss my new coastal community.

Singing Away the Blues

A couple of weeks ago a literary agent based in the States expressed interest in my book, Slowing Down in the Fast Lane: from Adventure to Zen and Everything in Between, and asked me to send the full manuscript. She seemed to love the concept and I had high hopes that she might want to represent me. On Monday morning, however, my hopes were dashed. Ouch! She emailed to let me know that she didn’t feel that the A-Z format worked “for the necessary emotional journey a reader must take with the author in a work of memoir.” A publisher in Queensland who loved my writing and humour said pretty much the same thing. It wasn’t so much the rejection that left me a bit flat but the thought, that after so much writing, re-writing, perfecting and polishing, I might have to embark on a total re-write.

But, of course, attempting to write a book and get it published is rarely a straightforward process. And it requires a great deal of patience and perseverance. On Monday I was lacking in both and ended up humming that Boomtown Rats song I don’t like Mondays ! That’s the thing about being self-employed, there’s no one to whinge to; you have to jolly yourself along. I’m mostly very good at motivating myself but nothing seemed to be flowing at the start of the week. It didn’t help that work was a bit thin on the ground in typical feast and famine freelance fashion.

Thankfully, however, Monday night is choir night. I decided to leave my hangdog day (and my beloved puppy dog) at home and throw myself into the singing. Our usual repertoire ranges from African harmonies, negro spiritual and chain gang songs to Russian ballads, Celtic folk tunes and sea shanties with a bit of contemporary stuff thrown in. But before we start signing, we loosen up with a workout for mind, body, voice and spirit which involves a series of meditative, breathing and vocal exercises followed by a bit of stretching and dancing around. How good it was this week to do the tongue sticking out routine – blahhhhhh, bluuuhhhh– and let go of the day’s frustration.

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At the end of the evening our Choir Director Richard came up to me and – quite unprompted – said: “Hello Charlotte! Today is the first day of the rest of your life.” Was he a mind reader? Did he know that I had spent the day battling book and impending big birthday blues? As in, I am halfway through my life – if not more – and, well, you know, dum de dum. What do I have to show for it? So ran my inner judge and critic on Monday. “Think about your triumphs and don’t listen to the negative chatter that comes up at three in the morning,” suggested Richard. I was about to come up with a great long list of all the non-triumphs (it’s so easy to default to that) but then realised that taking a huge leap of faith and moving to Australia nearly ten years ago has to be my biggest triumph to date.

I returned home with a deep sense of gratitude that I belong to such a wonderful choir full of like-minded, supportive and creative souls – it’s no coincidence we’re called Soul Song. And then I remembered two other huge triumphs. I took part in a solo singing workshop earlier this year and sang a Buena Vista Social Club song in Spanish to the rest of the group (amazing in itself as not so long ago I’d have almost preferred to strip naked than sing a solo), and then at our recent choir retreat, I learnt how to use a microphone and experimented with the same song – giving it my all. It really is never too late to change your life and find your voice.

Feeling the fear and doing it anyway...

Feeling the fear and doing it anyway…

As for the book, I’m going to see if I get any other bites before I change the format. I didn’t really set out to write a memoir, more a humorous anthology of life adventures… and misadventures. Perhaps I’ve been marketing it in the wrong way. I might take a straw poll and get some feedback in a future blog. Who knows, perhaps by the next zero birthday, I will be a published author.

I wannabe published...

I wannabe published…